Killing Me Softly With Fugu

What's in a reputation and where to buy fugu that won't kill

The Chinese poet Su Shi (very aptly named), said that death was worth it for of fugu. It is a dish that has inspired jokes, legends and even Simpsons episodes. To outsiders, this is the perfect encapsulation of Japanese food. Very traditional, unusual meats, and the vague sense of danger. When I informally polled friends from abroad, very few said they were game to try.

Is fugu really worth the risk of death?

Photo by Stelio Puccinelli on Unsplash

As a disclaimer to dispel the myth that fugu is any pufferfish, the above image is not something to eat, just a fun and misleading example. There are only specific species within the pufferfish category which meet the requirements of being both tasty and able to be prepared for safe consumption.

The other myth is that fugu is eaten by everyone. It is a luxury dish that isn’t found in most restaurants. There are only certain trained chefs who are licensed to prepare the delicacy (which is reassuring since if it’s wrongly prepared, you die).

While some restaurants offer the dish year-round, traditional wisdom suggests that fugu should be eaten between Autumn equinox and Spring equinox (the cold times). For higher priced restaurants, they typically offer a lower cost and more seasonal specialty meal during the warmer months. These dishes are still sea-based with hamo (conger eel) and flounder being popular options.

These factors make fugu unaffordable for the average daily meal, and ends up being reserved for special occasions.

What does fugu taste like?

Well, it depends how you cook it. Considering the rarity of fugu as a dish, it is surprisingly versatile. I’m not claiming it’s as versatile as potatoes but you can do more with it than the Bop It (which only did 3 things?).

Fugu is usually prepared as the centrepiece, so much like a featured ingredient on Iron Chef, banquets will generally serve the fish in a variety of forms. Each banquet will consist of different courses but I’ll detail a few of the more standard items (and a bonus.

1. Hirezake and Grilled Fugu Fins

   Hirezake goes hand in hand with grilled fugu fins. We usually consume this at the start of the meal. The chef will prepare charred fugu fins over a flame. Meanwhile a paired hot sake is served. I’m told that this is even hotter than normal so that the flavours of the fugu can infuse into the drink.

   It is a rich fishy flavour, uncommon to other cocktail mixers (I think).

   

   Photo by Tom Crew on Unsplash

2. Sashimi

   Typically the highlight of the banquet, fugu sashimi is prized for its delicate flavour. It is much less fishy or fatty than other popular raw fish including salmon and tuna. I would describe it as somewhat sweet. Fugu is well known for having a soft unmistakable tingle on the lips, a reminder of the poison. This is also the point in the meal where someone will joke about feeling too much tingling. In case they aren’t joking, there isn’t much to do but pretend it was a funny remark. There isn’t any antidote so they’ll likely not make it out of the restaurant alive, so the least you could do is laugh along at their joke.

3. Fugu chirinabe (Soup)

   If you’ve made it this far, you’re probably good. The soup is usually prepared at the table using a kelp/seaweed base, fugu meat and bones, cabbage and leeks. The cooked meat is pretty subtle too with a nice texture. Maybe the best part about eating this meal is knowing that you escaped certain death.

4. Tempura

   This has been my favourite tempura ingredient. I’m not certain on what part of the fish is used (maybe the actual spikes?) but this has crispy and fatty segments that makes each parcel uniquely flavoured. Sometimes served with other tempura staples, it is the fanciest fish and chip variant I’ve heard of.

5. Shabu shabu

   Dipping thinly sliced sashimi grade pieces into boiling dashi (Japanese fish stock) is tasty. To me, it would be equally tasty just eating the raw fugu slices but this method changes the texture. The fish gets an added boost of flavour from the dashi, and it’s always fun having some very lightly cooked meat.

6. Fuguno Ransou (Pickled Fugu Ovary)

   Not something I’ve tried but a delicacy in Ishikawa Prefecture. The ovaries are usually not eaten, since that’s where the poison resides within the fish (although no recorded deaths from this preparation). When I say not usually eaten, it is illegal in all of Japan, outside of Ishikawa Prefecture. It’s a 3 year process to properly salt and brine the ovaries until they’re ready.

Where can I eat fugu?

Luckily, fugu isn’t a dish only found in a particular prefecture of Japan. Unhelpfully, that means that there are many qualified and quality chefs of the fish. I'll also issue a medical disclaimer: all suggestions are solely for the purposes of interesting food options and do not constitute medical advice in case of Tetratoxin poisoning.

These few suggested options include places we’ve visited and friend recommendations but is by no means an extensive list.

1. Usukifugu Yamadaya (Tokyo):

   This two star Michelin restaurant is widely considered to be one of the best places to try fugu in Tokyo. Like the famous saying, if you know tyres, you know good food. This restaurant specializes in a rare variety of fugu known as usuki fugu, which is only found in the waters around Oita Prefecture (near Kyoto). There are two Tokyo based branches, but tables are hard to book and prices are high.

2. Torafugu Tei (Tokyo):

   A more affordable chain restaurant offering (still by no means cheap). Low cost franchise models even work in the poisonous fish market! This Torafugu Tei still offers all the classic preparations of fugu so is likely the best option for people who want to try the fish without throwing away their wallet.

3. Yoshiko (Osaka):

   One star Michelin and famed across Osaka. I don’t have much to add, but it does seem like the place to be seen eating fugu. It offers all the classic styles of fugu and has been around long enough that it is now second generation run.

4. Mifune Fuji Gaoka (Nagoya):

   Like the city of Nagoya itself, this restaurant seems a more relaxed affair compared to its counterparts in Tokyo and Osaka. Since this is where the locals go, prices are much more palatable than other establishments. Their priority is serving good portion sizes for a good price. It has the licenses and the dishes, but won’t be planning on joining the Michelin stars.

5. Private Chef (Anywhere- but this link goes to one in Niseko):

   If you’ve got the cash (and kitchen size), it’s possible to just book a private chef. You can request more of one dish or just let the chef cook! I have not had this experience yet, but maybe once this Substack is famous I’ll have a travelling private fugu chef.

For those who are now interested in trying Fugu, please book a ticket and let me know your thoughts. If the comments are empty, I'll assume all readers tried cooking it themselves (Please don't, I'd love all my subscribers to stay alive). Or have you already tried fugu? Let me know in the comments below.