Matsusaka Beef: The Hidden Steak
The best Japanese beef and where to find it
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Beef is important in Japan. Like almost everything else beef is ranked and classified. Breeds, cuts, and slices are categorised so that it’s neatly tracked and consumers know the quality and where their food is coming from.
For the rest of the carnivorous world, however, only 2 terms have made it off the Japanese Islands, Wagyu and Kobe. Both became prominent in the 1990s, when Japanese produce was ascendant. Most people know of Wagyu as a keyword that makes any meal sounds slightly fancier. The self-described foodies would also tell you that Wagyu is simply breeds of cattle from Japanese stock. Not even exclusively Japanese, Wagyu beef can come from anywhere as long as the cattle is cultivated from that herd. It is common to find Wagyu beef in most restaurants that have a selection of meats since they can source it from Australia, USA, Canada etc.
More vaunted is Kobe Beef, arguably the most well known cut of steak around the world.
Rise of Kobe
First off, Kobe beef isn’t overrated. Definitely expensive. But Kobe beef deserves its lofty status as one of the best meat money can buy. Like sparkling wine from Champagne, the name is geolocked. Only producers who’ve gotten the big tick of approval can sell Kobe beef and profit off its fame.
There are guidelines to what makes Kobe beef eligible, and the restrictions ensure a high level of quality. The key thing that ensures their quality though isn’t the fact it’s from the Kobe prefecture region. It’s the Kuroge breed (one of the breeds of Wagyu), that is genetically predisposed to greater meat marbling. Just like other genetic predispositions, this has meant Kuroge cows have a shortened lifespan.
This means beef from anywhere in Japan can and do achieved A4 or A5 quality (ranked on marbling out of 5). Kobe is famous beyond its shores partially for its quality control measures, partially due to successful branding and partially the luck of being a major port.
Since Kuroge beef was shipped from many prefectures in the south of Japan from the port of Kobe, foreigners would first see the Kobe label on their package. Without any greater context it became a self fulfilling policy of foreigners ordering Kobe beef first and asking questions later. It still remains one of the few foods famous enough that parents named future athletes after the location (along the legendary Lebron Cheese, and Cristiano Caramel).
Big 3
Within Japan, Kobe beef is still regarded as among the best. Key word among. Three farming associations all share in the national praises, with local meat eaters debating amongst themselves. Kobe, Ōmi and Matsusaka beef. In the end people will normally default to whichever is local.
Since we’re living in Mie prefecture, so too are my loyalties.
What’s special about Matsusaka?
A small city in Mie Prefecture, Matsusaka covers an area that has a coast and a strong history of agriculture. The first thing you notice stepping into Matsusaka is that it could be mistaken for any number of other similarly sized towns.
As a “slightly larger than neighbouring towns” town, Matsusaka has an exchange train line between JR and Kintetsu, it has a few big malls including Aeon Town, and the station is beside multiple business hotels.
Unlike Kobe, it is not a major port city so didn’t get that international cachet. Also unlike Kobe its not that close to major cities (90 minutes from Nagoya). In truth if there wasn’t the legendary beef, even we wouldn’t go out of our way to visit.
Wheres the beef?
Fortunately beef is easy to find in Matsusaka. The question is what style you want it prepared and at what level of service.
Only the best
If you’ve come all the way to Matsusaka, it starts with Wadakin. Don’t make the mistake of not booking. This is a place where business deals are signed, where engagements are made, and is synonymous with Matsusaka beef. Everyone who makes the choice to indulge in Matsusaka beef has an opinion on Wadakin. This sukiyaki restaurant has operated since 1878, and ever since has received comments that they’ve gone downhill.
As expected of a historic 1878 institution, Wadakin is a traditional experience. Shoes off and tatami mat seating. Upon arrival you are led into a private room. You order one of several sets. The servers will grill the marinated meats for your party. They will make sure that everything is cooked the perfect amount and flavour. If drinks are wanted, the pairings are provided. This is a premium experience at an equally premium price tag.
Address: 1878 Nakamachi, Matsusaka, Mie 515-0083, Japan
Wadakin was booked out
Different discerning diners each have provided their personal preferences. Many have reported that Wadakin has gotten too famous and too expensive and other restaurants have surpassed them. Even still most suggest trying Wadakin first and making up your mind.
The first among these recommended options for an equally luxurious experience is Gyugin. They measure themselves against Wadakin and are the other behemoth in Matsusuka. Also a long standing location, they are younger (not by much at 1902), and slightly more easily bookable. Both are legendary and well worth the pilgrimage.
http://www.gyugin-honten.co.jp/
Address: 1618 Uomachi, Matsusaka, Mie 515-0082, Japan
I can pay, I’m in Matsusaka but I want a Western steak
For whatever reason you’re a steak purist and refuse to eat thinner Japanese cuts. We don’t judge here. You are in luck. There have been enough steak lovers who visit Matsusaka as they know the quality of the beef. All they want is someone who can bring out the quality of Matsusaka beef in a thicker cut.
While this publication has not dined here, it comes highly recommended by friends. This is your traditional steakhouse charged by the 100g. Well, “traditional” as a Japanese steakhouse, there are Japanese sides only.
Address: 25 Kyomachi, Matsusaka, Mie 515-0017, Japan
I’m not paying over $100 USD for dinner
It is possible to avoid exorbitant prices and still enjoy high quality meat. The first option is eat at lunch. Japanese restaurants almost always offer lunch menus that is more palatable to the wallet. These ‘teishoku’ are set menus with rice and miso soup and can be found at each of the above establishments. It may have smaller serving sizes but is always better value than full price.
If you want to experience top quality beef at almost half price, go at lunch.
I can’t make it to Matsusaka but find myself in Mie
Given the remoteness and limited tourism appeal, we understand not devoting a half day of your trip to get here. That’s perfectly fine since there are high quality restaurants across Japan that serve Matsusaka beef as a highlight on their menu.
The locations where you can order this steak still clusters around the city and Mie prefecture, as almost everyone here is a stakeholder (sorry), in promoting the quality of the produce.
I want to give special mention to 2 locations in the Mie prefecture that feature the pride of Matsusaka.
Kappou Nishimura in Yokkaichi is a 2 star Michelin Restaurant. It is a sensational restaurant that offers Kaiseki dining, a style of dining that derives from the Emperor’s meal list. I’d love to detail with more information in a future post if this is of interested to people, but among the courses at Nishimura was the best steak I’ve ever eaten.
Address: 12-15 Nishishinchi, Yokkaichi, Mie 510-0087, Japan
A different dining experience is found at Isshobin. This is a chain restaurant that is dotted across Mie as well as neighbouring prefectures. Isshobin is famed in the area as a Yakiniku destination for the busy salaryman on the go. As salarymen are all busy, this has proved to be a popular business decision. They have several very reasonably priced Matsusaka set bento menus, which the customer is responsible to cook themselves. What Isshobin does better than some other other do-your-own grills are the variety of cuts offered, from tongue to tail.
Address: Found throughout Mie prefecture, and some in nearby Aichi.
Across the country
Depending on which city you visit typically at least one or two of the restaurants will feature as the premium beef provider to the hungry masses. In Tokyo and Osaka, there are dozens of choices for high end dining options featuring Matsusaka cuts. I will provide details on one found in Shibuya, Tokyo, as a more easily accessible location for those who don’t venture out of the city.
While this author has not had the privilege of dining here, I want to pass on a recommendation from a friend. Rokkasen is one of the many restaurants found in Shibuya’s high rises. I’m told that a queue starts forming outside the Sunflower Building by 11.30am for the 6th floor spot. The restaurant is known for its varieties of beef, including an all you can eat option if you’re inclined to compare. Otherwise, they still feature Matsusaka as their preferred flavour.
Address: Japan, 〒160-0023 Tokyo, Shinjuku City, Nishishinjuku, 1 Chome−3−1 新宿サンフラワービル 6階・7階
For readers who have tried Matusaka Beef, or any of these restaurants please let me know if they lived up to the name! I’d love to hear of other places that you’ve tried and I can always add them to my list.
I feel hungry now ! The links for the restaurants don’t work - they can be fixed easily. I’d love a few more photos, maybe ones you took showing the restaurants, cows or food. Relevant YouTube links can be fun. The paragraph style (short) works well on phone where I am reading (in the app). Thanks for the story, now I know where to eat in Japan when I’m over sushi !